JEM Watercraft

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FullQWi2 ... re=related

I saw this on utube. Instead of using the fence to gauge the strips, he uses a stop on the featherboard side. He then snugs the fence up. Any thoughts? Do you think it would work and do you see any advantages?

I have shot more than one strip out like an arrow before.

Looks like a good idea. However, you have to adjust the fence every time so it would add some time to the project. I just set my fence at 1/4" and keep ripping them until I am done. Then, by the time I am done sanding everything before fiberglassing, they are about 3/16 inches thick. Or as I like to think, 25% lighter. I use a push block towards the end so my fingers don't get near the blade. I save all my finger cuttin' for the Japanese pull saw. Much cleaner and less painful cut

Clamp a board to the fence, so the back of the board is just past the back of the blade.
Now set the distance between blade and board to be that of the required strip thickness.
Now use board as your fence and as the wood passes the rear of the blade, it stops there until you cut your next strip and pushes the strip away.

You can push the timber thru using a Wood Strip Cutter Jig as seen here -
http://www.turnedwood.com/tools&jigs.html#StripCut

Cheers Mike

I agree with both of you. I like the idea of the strip jig. I also decided it is not worth moving the fence each time. I went agead and used some feather boards to prevent kick back.

jackjama wrote:I saw this on utube. Instead of using the fence to gauge the strips, he uses a stop on the featherboard side. He then snugs the fence up. Any thoughts? Do you think it would work and do you see any advantages?

I have shot more than one strip out like an arrow before.

This is the way I learned to do my strips.