Strip built Okwata
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 12:53 am
Well, I started this project awhile back (sometime in April), I just haven't had time to post pictures. I started by cutting templates out of cheap oriented strand board (OSB) like I did on the Sabalo build. I used luan for templates for the strip built touring pirogue I built a couple of years ago, but, I found the 1/4 plywood was more difficult to run the flush-cut router bit on and OSB is cheaper 
.
One set of every panel (except the bottom panels) was cut from the OSB. However, I chose to use marine ply for the bottom two panels due to: the extreme twist on the ends; the okume is a harder wood; and it will be covered with graphite/epoxy, so strips wouldn't be seen anyways.
Marine ply bottoms:
glue joint in the marineply:
For the rest of the panels, I ripped a bunch of cedar strips out of 5/4 X 4 deck boards that I found at Lowes. I hit the motherload of clear 10 footers
. The strips were slightly under 1/4 inch thick. I did not cove and bead the strips. When I ripped them, I kept them in the order they were cut from the board and taped them up so all strips from each board were kept together. I did this so I could book match the strips and the entire boat will be visually "balanced". This boat will be all cedar with no pine accent strips.
Here is a picture of the rear deck stripped next to the OSB template:
The larger templates were laid out and I fastened them to my newly fabricated 16 foot table as per the QA measurements. I wanted to not have butt joints. Therefore, I could eliminate that step and also a potential weak spot. This is the same procedure I used on the JEM Touring Pirogue.
I started stripping on the top of the side panels so the seam will be all one continuous line. As I added strips, I laid an oak board on edge across every so many feet and clamped it down so when the strips were clamped to each others edges, the panel would not buckle. I was able to clamp about 3-4 rows at a time, so the panels went together rather quickly. You can see, on the right side of the table, the fiberglass curing on the bottom panel butt joints.
The only nails used to hold the strips in place were on the upper edge. These holes will also be used for the stitching. I wanted to build with as few holes as possible. After the panels were glued and done, I trimmed them with the flush-cut router bit. Then, since none were wider than 13 inches, I ran the panels through my planer, It was a two person job on some since they were up to 15 feet long. I wish I would have done this on the piroge. It saves a lot of sanding, and makes a uniform thickness throughout the entire length of the panel. The final panel thickness was 3/16".
Then I fiberglassed the inside of the panels to strengthen them for the assembly and making it so I only have to tape the inside joints. I find it much easier then fiberglassing the entire inside.
Here is a shot of the two side panels after the flush cut bit, planing, and saturation coat of epoxy. I had started laying on the odds and ends of fiberglass:
When I do the insides of these panels, I do not cut one long piece of glass. I like to use up the scraps and overlap them by about 2-4 inches. And when I don't have any scraps left I just cut the cloth width-wise off the roll into 54" pieces. I find it easier to handle that way than one long piece of glass cloth. The overall boat may end up a few ounces heavier, but I figure its cheaper due to less waste in the cloth since I get to use up my scraps. Since only one coat of epoxy has been put on the insides of these panels, you can see the overlaps:
I almost left out the most critical step that I do on every boat. This time I got it out of the way right off the bat. I slipped with the Japanese pull saw while cutting a strip
:
I feel this step is necessary because the blood soaks into the porous wood leaving behind my DNA. Then, if the boat is ever stolen, I can prove its mine upon recovery
All the panels but the two long skinny deck panels are done and ready for assembly. I hope to get the hull tacked up this weekend. Then, maybe I can get the hull glassed on Monday night.
. One set of every panel (except the bottom panels) was cut from the OSB. However, I chose to use marine ply for the bottom two panels due to: the extreme twist on the ends; the okume is a harder wood; and it will be covered with graphite/epoxy, so strips wouldn't be seen anyways.
Marine ply bottoms:
glue joint in the marineply:
For the rest of the panels, I ripped a bunch of cedar strips out of 5/4 X 4 deck boards that I found at Lowes. I hit the motherload of clear 10 footers
. The strips were slightly under 1/4 inch thick. I did not cove and bead the strips. When I ripped them, I kept them in the order they were cut from the board and taped them up so all strips from each board were kept together. I did this so I could book match the strips and the entire boat will be visually "balanced". This boat will be all cedar with no pine accent strips.Here is a picture of the rear deck stripped next to the OSB template:
The larger templates were laid out and I fastened them to my newly fabricated 16 foot table as per the QA measurements. I wanted to not have butt joints. Therefore, I could eliminate that step and also a potential weak spot. This is the same procedure I used on the JEM Touring Pirogue.
I started stripping on the top of the side panels so the seam will be all one continuous line. As I added strips, I laid an oak board on edge across every so many feet and clamped it down so when the strips were clamped to each others edges, the panel would not buckle. I was able to clamp about 3-4 rows at a time, so the panels went together rather quickly. You can see, on the right side of the table, the fiberglass curing on the bottom panel butt joints.
The only nails used to hold the strips in place were on the upper edge. These holes will also be used for the stitching. I wanted to build with as few holes as possible. After the panels were glued and done, I trimmed them with the flush-cut router bit. Then, since none were wider than 13 inches, I ran the panels through my planer, It was a two person job on some since they were up to 15 feet long. I wish I would have done this on the piroge. It saves a lot of sanding, and makes a uniform thickness throughout the entire length of the panel. The final panel thickness was 3/16".
Then I fiberglassed the inside of the panels to strengthen them for the assembly and making it so I only have to tape the inside joints. I find it much easier then fiberglassing the entire inside.
Here is a shot of the two side panels after the flush cut bit, planing, and saturation coat of epoxy. I had started laying on the odds and ends of fiberglass:
When I do the insides of these panels, I do not cut one long piece of glass. I like to use up the scraps and overlap them by about 2-4 inches. And when I don't have any scraps left I just cut the cloth width-wise off the roll into 54" pieces. I find it easier to handle that way than one long piece of glass cloth. The overall boat may end up a few ounces heavier, but I figure its cheaper due to less waste in the cloth since I get to use up my scraps. Since only one coat of epoxy has been put on the insides of these panels, you can see the overlaps:
I almost left out the most critical step that I do on every boat. This time I got it out of the way right off the bat. I slipped with the Japanese pull saw while cutting a strip
:I feel this step is necessary because the blood soaks into the porous wood leaving behind my DNA. Then, if the boat is ever stolen, I can prove its mine upon recovery
All the panels but the two long skinny deck panels are done and ready for assembly. I hope to get the hull tacked up this weekend. Then, maybe I can get the hull glassed on Monday night.
Good idea on using it to identify property.
. I anticipated this, but I didn't want to add more to it because I wanted a uniform line where it meets the side panel. Time for the back-up plan. 
