Need some help

[preacher]

I am trying to install my rudder elevator ropes inside the walls of the yak so they don't show and so they aren't in my way when fishing. I have installed 3/8" PVC from the cockpit to the rear hatch bulkhead but I'm struggling what to do with the place the rope will go through the rear deck. I'm thinking about making up something with a tube attached to a plate and mount the plate to the top of the deck. I can powder coat the plate black to keep the theme of the yak. This is a rough idea of what I'm thinking.

Some of you guys have brilliant ideas when it comes to innovation and I sure would like some input.

[santakart]

Hello my name is Steve I work on flight school acft and have seen many things that will work. Try aircraftspruce.com, then go to product index on the LH side of the page, click on airframe parts, in the first column look at cable assemblies, then look at the first line the far pic, this is a cover that will go either inside or outside where a cable goes thru the fuselage of an acft, I do not know weather your rope will go thru the hole there is no size given. If you put one inside and one outside this might curb the issue of chafeing of your rope, I hope this will help you. Aircraft parts are expensive so be warned now if you find anything else you might like to use, happy shopping
If it flies it costs a lot!
Steve

[Phishtech]

Why use a rope? Why not some thinner and stronger plastic covered HD fishing leader? You could attach with Crane swivels or any number of hardware set-ups. Check out the Duckwork stuff and see what they have.

[john the pom]

Couple of questions:
A, Are you fretting about this on account of: rope/cable wearing a groove in the deck?
B, concerned about the cable being able to run freely through the hole?
C, the angle that the rope/cable exits the hull?

I am assuming that by elevator cable you mean the one that will lift and lower the rudder in and out of the water.

A + B I would consider grommets as used to feed wires etc, in cars boats, so chandlers or auto electrical should have something useful to suit that.
C a simple pulley mounted under the deck. Then a HDPE (think of one of those cheap white kitchen chopping boards) block with suitably angled hole drilled through glued to underside of hole to assist with A and B
Hope I am on the right track and that this is of some use to you. None of the above requires spending more than a few dollars and would need no welding etc.

Cheers John.

[preacher]

Couple of questions:
A, Are you fretting about this on account of: rope/cable wearing a groove in the deck?
B, concerned about the cable being able to run freely through the hole?
C, the angle that the rope/cable exits the hull?

I am assuming that by elevator cable you mean the one that will lift and lower the rudder in and out of the water.

A + B I would consider grommets as used to feed wires etc, in cars boats, so chandlers or auto electrical should have something useful to suit that.
C a simple pulley mounted under the deck. Then a HDPE (think of one of those cheap white kitchen chopping boards) block with suitably angled hole drilled through glued to underside of hole to assist with A and B
Hope I am on the right track and that this is of some use to you. None of the above requires spending more than a few dollars and would need no welding etc.

Cheers John.

Thanks John, you're right on in all of the above plus I want this apparatus to look good and match the decor of the yak. Because of that I ruled out the gromlets after looking at them. On the other hand I am very familiar with HDPE (have a whole yard full of it) and it sounds interesting. If I do that all under the deck it would leave a clean topside which achieves what I want. Even if I had to apply some to the topside I could use black HDPE.

My fretting just eased up a little

[makenmend]

Preacher if the bend is not to acute you might try using the tubing normally used to hook up your icemaker(opaque 1/4'' dia)and spectra cable used on the Hobie brand sailsboats/kayaks.Iv'e used it on a couple of boats and works great. Tubing can be found at home depot/lowes and the spectra from Mariner Sails Dallas.
MM\

PS putting a lighter to the end of the tubing will cause it to bell out and make a nice watertight jiont where it passes through the hull.

[preacher]

Preacher if the bend is not to acute you might try using the tubing normally used to hook up your icemaker(opaque 1/4'' dia)and spectra cable used on the Hobie brand sailsboats/kayaks.Iv'e used it on a couple of boats and works great. Tubing can be found at home depot/lowes and the spectra from Mariner Sails Dallas.
MM\

PS putting a lighter to the end of the tubing will cause it to bell out and make a nice watertight jiont where it passes through the hull.

Someone else suggested using a heavy mono for my control instead of the rope but I'm a little concerned about using something other than the rope that came on the rudder.

The angle is another concern but I think I can control that by moving the verticle from the rudder out some, and make the bend 2 smaller angles. Because of those angles I believe I will need to use something rigid like copper tubing to control the rope. A small pulley might work but it would have to have a rope keeper on it so the rope don't jump off track.

I'm going to experiment with the HDPE this weekend and see what it looks like first. I can see all kinds of benefits in going that direction, but you know how creative experiments go . . . .

Thanks for your input, this ain't my last boat so who knows????

[dangermouse01]

I'm going to experiment with the HDPE this weekend and see what it looks like first.

Experiment with epoxy bonding HDPE to wood (and keeping it bonded) before you get to far. West System says their G-Flex works for bonding HDPE.

DM

[craiggamesh]

Preacher if the bend is not to acute you might try using the tubing normally used to hook up your icemaker(opaque 1/4'' dia)and spectra cable used on the Hobie brand sailsboats/kayaks.Iv'e used it on a couple of boats and works great. Tubing can be found at home depot/lowes and the spectra from Mariner Sails Dallas.
MM\

PS putting a lighter to the end of the tubing will cause it to bell out and make a nice watertight jiont where it passes through the hull.

I did something similar to this.

I used stainless steel downrigger wire for the cables in my Sabalo. I ran them through the 1/4 inch irrigation drip tubing from Home Depot. It was $4.99 for 100 feet. They enter the deck through little wooden "frog eyes" (the frog-eye idea I borrowed from Bemm's Sabalo build ). In each end of the tubing, I pushed in half of an "in-line" coupler used to attach two lines of tubing. This caused the end to bell out, and it added additional abbrasion resistance to the tubing.

It has worked very well for me and it was inexpensive.
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2811&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=40

[makenmend]

the 1st time I tried this I used stainless steel cable to, but in the constant high salt air environment(Cayman Islands) it didn't stand the test of time,with the spectra it did plus the low friction of the two components made the rudder action far superior.
MM