JEM Watercraft

Hello, Im new to this site but have been lurking for a while. I have built 2 canoes, 1 a s&g Selwayfisher baby raven 12'm and the other a 16 ' outboard canoe.I now find myself needing another canoe. I have a trip planned for next year that will consist of about 100 miles, some through winding rivers, then the delta, finally some open water in the bays. I would add a sail rig and sail the open waters. After this trip the canoe would be used as a solo boat and as a tandem canoe for the family. I really like open canoes and using a double paddle. Would this boat be up to this task?

As a single boat to fulfill all those rolls, I think sas 16 is a good choice.

G'day Ken and welcome aboard mate.

I built the prototype Sas 16 and love it to bits. It is easily the best open canoe I have ever paddled.

I built this boat specifically for extended river trips - solo, or as a light tandem and in this regard, she is second to none.

I have no canoe sailing experience, but my new friend from the US who paddled her the other day, assures me that my boat would make a fine canoe sailer. He races sailing canoes in the States.

Chaps,

Wouldn't the South wind be a better proposition for all these rolls?

I'm halfway through my 14' Sasquatch but I can't get out in the Southwind enough and on open water the protection the deck gives is great.

Tor

south wind would be a very tight squeeze as a tandem.

I have noticed the stripper style stitch and glue. How would the sasquatch do in this style? Marine lumber seems hard to get locally plus I like the look of the stripper and I am familiar with s&g.

Also I can find western red cedar but it has a rough cut on on side. Would this matter a whole lot when using for strips, or would this rough side have to be planned down?

kenfyoozed wrote:I have noticed the stripper style stitch and glue. How would the sasquatch do in this style? Marine lumber seems hard to get locally plus I like the look of the stripper and I am familiar with s&g.

Also I can find western red cedar but it has a rough cut on on side. Would this matter a whole lot when using for strips, or would this rough side have to be planned down?

I think that would depend on how rough it is. If you are doing cove and bead, the router would effectively plane the strips. At least that has been the case for me. If you aren't doing cove and bead, and its not too rough, I would think that it could still work. Can you find cedar 2x4s (or 6,8,10) used for deck building. If so, you could make 1 1/2" x 1/4 inch strips which would require 1/2 the glue joints. I did this with cedar 2x6's on the Jem pirogue I built a couple years ago. However, I used 3/4 inch pine for accent strips because I couldn't find pine 2x4s.

kenfyoozed wrote:I have noticed the stripper style stitch and glue. How would the sasquatch do in this style?

The bottom panel of Sasquatch has a 90 degree twist, the the "strip-stitch" method could be an issue with that panel. Some builder who tried it report that if you fiberglass that panel of strip before trying to twist it, it works out ok.

jem wrote:

kenfyoozed wrote:I have noticed the stripper style stitch and glue. How would the sasquatch do in this style?

The bottom panel of Sasquatch has a 90 degree twist, the the "strip-stitch" method could be an issue with that panel. Some builder who tried it report that if you fiberglass that panel of strip before trying to twist it, it works out ok.

I fiberglass one side (the side that will be the inside) first as Matt mentioned above. I am currently building an Okwata and since the bottom will be coated with graphite/epoxy, mix and due to the above mentioned twist, I am using plywood left over from another project for the bottom panels.