JEM Watercraft

Matt do you have the square footage of the Wye 13-6 to enable calculating wood quantity for stripping.
MM

What is a wye?
Ron

Me too

Wye is the boat created regarding this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=2588

makenmend wants to prototype it using the "strip and stitch" method of building.

If you had 14' strips 3/4" wide, exactly 76 strips would be needed (assuming no bead and cove is being used). So factor in some additional strips for mistakes and waste from cutting the strips and you'll have a good estimate of how much wood you'd need.

thanks Matt.I'll just go with 100 strips to allow for my fopars, dont want to find myself short at the end,have to order my wood sight unseen out of Miami.Only one sourse of WRC on the island and thats 1" *6" *8' tongue and groove, found 2 lengths without knots to practice with this weekend.

MM

makenmend wrote:Only one sourse of WRC on the island and thats 1" *6" *8' tongue and groove,

MM

Based on what you stated, there's a chance that the tongue and groove they will supply on the 1x6x8 may be of little use to you. It will be on the 1" ends and you'll need to slice the board perpendicular to the them to create your strips.

However, you do not really need a tongue-and-groove. You're gluing flat edge to flat edge and long as you use a quality glue like Tightbond III and follow the instructions on the bottle, you'll have a strong panel.

You could go as far as using epoxy glue (epoxy thickened with woodflour or other filler) to glue the strips together for an extremely strong bond.

Please post your progress. I'm very interested in this model and build method.

the T&G is not going to be used in any way like bead & cove, I only got it to practice with having removed the routed sides, spent the afternoon going over all my table saw adjustments ,making zero clearance plate , feather boards, and installing 7.25" thin kerf blade,then run some scraps thro to test, will be using titebode III, epoxy here is $200+ per gal so will only use for glass work. can't make up my mind if I should glass one side (inside) before stitching as it looks more intricate than a regular hull, but wander if this might make the panels harder to conform to shape.plus I'm going to have to learn how to post pics

MM

On the 3 panels that form the upside-down "U" in the cockpit you could since they have no bend. The others you might want to wait until everything is joined as a hull.

Thanks Matt, that looks to be panels 1,2&3 in the panel reference,that should expedite and simplify things.

MM

#3 has a slight bend, but not much.