Touring Pirogue - Pacific Island Motif
Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 1:31 pm
Hello,
This thread will summarize my experience building Matt's 16' Touring Pirogue. First, I would like to thank all the other posters who have contributed to these forums as their creativity and insight helped this build come along.
I have some build photos available at http://footonthesea.com/Projects/Boat/projects.html
The pirogue is made in fiberglassed okume BS1088 4mm ply (3 sheets), Raka 127 epoxy resin with 350 and/or 610 hardener. The waterline was finished with the graphite/epoxy mix described in the forums and trimwork was painted with Kirby's. The gunnels and thwarts are poplar.
I also made extensive use of the print-on-tissue paper technique (described in the forums) to realize my design goal of incorporating a hand-illustrated, horizontal totem with a Pacific-Island motif of stylized animals, masks, totems, hooks, and even a few Rongo-Rongo characters.
If I was begining the build now I would do the following differently:
1). While making initial hull fillets I would clamp on temporary gunnels to help overall hull fairness
2). Before installing the decks I would finish (as much as possible) all the epoxy work and interior fiberglassing of the hull and deck (making sure to leave the meeting joints unfinished for the strongest bond). Even relatively short decks cut off easy access to the hull's interior).
3). Make end-pours outside for maximum pitch control (I had to dam and pour inside due to low outside temperatures and the results are not as nice as a high-angle pour; which was not possible due to ceiling height). End-Pour in small steps with time to set between -those ends heat up fast if cupfulls are poured in.
4). Use a wheeled workstand with locking casters. Ideally, rough work (cutting, sanding, etc.) and detail work (epoxying, painting, etc.) should be performed in separate areas.
If anyone here paddles in central Tennessee look me up.
Cheers.
This thread will summarize my experience building Matt's 16' Touring Pirogue. First, I would like to thank all the other posters who have contributed to these forums as their creativity and insight helped this build come along.
I have some build photos available at http://footonthesea.com/Projects/Boat/projects.html
The pirogue is made in fiberglassed okume BS1088 4mm ply (3 sheets), Raka 127 epoxy resin with 350 and/or 610 hardener. The waterline was finished with the graphite/epoxy mix described in the forums and trimwork was painted with Kirby's. The gunnels and thwarts are poplar.
I also made extensive use of the print-on-tissue paper technique (described in the forums) to realize my design goal of incorporating a hand-illustrated, horizontal totem with a Pacific-Island motif of stylized animals, masks, totems, hooks, and even a few Rongo-Rongo characters.
If I was begining the build now I would do the following differently:
1). While making initial hull fillets I would clamp on temporary gunnels to help overall hull fairness
2). Before installing the decks I would finish (as much as possible) all the epoxy work and interior fiberglassing of the hull and deck (making sure to leave the meeting joints unfinished for the strongest bond). Even relatively short decks cut off easy access to the hull's interior).
3). Make end-pours outside for maximum pitch control (I had to dam and pour inside due to low outside temperatures and the results are not as nice as a high-angle pour; which was not possible due to ceiling height). End-Pour in small steps with time to set between -those ends heat up fast if cupfulls are poured in.
4). Use a wheeled workstand with locking casters. Ideally, rough work (cutting, sanding, etc.) and detail work (epoxying, painting, etc.) should be performed in separate areas.
If anyone here paddles in central Tennessee look me up.
Cheers.