extra bracing for the decking?

[Tor]

I'm about to build a southwind so I want some advice from those who have built decked canoes and kayaks.

That open cockpit with the deck running down the side looks like a very tempting place to grab and carry the canoe with disastrous consequences I know I won't do it but it's inevitable as I won't always be there as it gets picked up. The little bits of bracing in the plans may help but they don't look that substantial.

I'm thinking that I might try to make the main deck braces a little more substantial and run some 1" dowel or half round between them along the edge of the deck.

Anyone tried this or had consequences of lifting the canoe/kayak by the edges of the deck around the cockpit?

I'm also considering trying to carry the canoe on the car on it's side so that there is still enough room for another canoe or bikes. Will I need to strengthen the hull in a specific way to do this?

sharpening the pencils and about to start...

Tor

[jem]

The plans show the required deck supports. They are pretty stout. You could add additional braces spaced in between the existing ones. Maybe add them to match the dimensions of your roof rack strap down points.

Also, you could fillet and fiberglass the underside of the deck to the hull it you're concerned about strength. But she's pretty stout.

[Jimmy W]

I have the 15 foot South Wind and don't worry about lifting or carrying it by the inside edge of the deck. I made a carrying yoke that clamps on at about the center of the coaming and carry it on my racks resting on the coaming. It seems to be plenty strong. I did cut the braces out of 3/8 ply and drilled a couple of holes in each one mainly as tie-down points.
Jimmy

[Tor]

Thanks,

i guess it's just a little uncertainty regarding the strength, it all seems a little flimsy in the component parts.

I must remember that the whole is more than the parts

Tor

[Kayak Jack]

I have a similar situation on the decks of my canoe. Here's how I solved it.

I have epoxy pours in the stem ends. My bow and stern ropes are through the holes. Here, I tie a large bowline knot. The loop is large enough to go completely up over the decks. To carry the boat, I slip my hand through the loop up onto my wrist, and grab the loop below my hand. This makes a carrying handle that is readily available, strong, comfortable, and easy to use.

On my decks are two bungees. They run longitudinally, parallel to the length of the boat, are about 5"-6" apart, and are about 5" long above the deck. To stow an end rope, I bring the end up to the knot part of the bowline, thus doubling it. I continue doubling until I have a handy bundle. Tuck this bundle into the two bungees SO THE LINE BACK TO THE HOLE IS IN BETWEEN THE BUNGEES. This is important. Now, you can grab the bundle in a hurry and it will be free of the bungees. Also, because it isn't coiled, there will be no tangles or kinks in it.

My pours and stem end holes are just above the water line when loaded so, if necessary, I can stand on shore and line a loaded boat up or down rapids.

[Tor]

Now I will read that again in the morning but I've just finished a pint of a very nice home brewed Bavarian lager after a long week and it makes no sense at all

However if you have pictures somewhere it may enhance your description because if nothing else it got my attention as something I may want to attempt.

Thanks,

Tor

I shouldn't type under the influence

[hairymick]

G'day Tor,

My 17'9" Southwind has no extra bracing than that specified in the plans.

it is as strong as a bear, no worries mate.