Strip Built Pirogue
Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 1:49 pm
I followed Matt's instructions to cut out the ply wood templates. I put nails in at the control points and clamped a thin flexible strip to the nails and traced the lines.
Finished tracing.
I only traced one side panel and after it was cut and sanded to the line, i used it as a template to cut the other side with a flush cut router bit.
Here are all the panels cut out:
Then I took the two eight foot lengths of Luan used to form the bottom template and butt jointed them with a butt block screwed on at the edge of the 2 pieces underneath. You can see the cedar and pine strips stacked below. I used a table saw and ripped them with a Freud 7 1/4 inch thin curf blade to 3/16 inch thick. The pine strips were 3/4 inch wide. The cedar was two widths, 3/4 and 1 1/2 inches wide. Since the panels were flat I was able to get away with using the wider strips. This would not have been the case if i was building a standard strip built boat with forms.
Prior to stripping, I covered the plywood template with plastic so the strips would not end up being inadvertently glued to the plywood. Here you can see the bottom was completely stripped. Strips were edge glued and stapled to the template. I did not do cove and bead strips due to everything being flat.
Then, a flush cut router bit is used to duplicate the shape of the template.
Next, I thickened some epoxy with west systems 404 filler. I did not use much, just enough to thicken the epoxy to fill in any small cracks in the edge joints, but not enough to notice visually. I applied this sealer coat with a squeegy.
When this coat was dry, I put a layer of 6 oz fiber glass cloth on the hull panel and applied epoxy with a squeegy. Two more coats were applied to fill the weave.
After the final coat was dry, the extra fiberglass at the edge was trimmed flush with the edge of the hull panel.
Craig
Finished tracing.
I only traced one side panel and after it was cut and sanded to the line, i used it as a template to cut the other side with a flush cut router bit.
Here are all the panels cut out:
Then I took the two eight foot lengths of Luan used to form the bottom template and butt jointed them with a butt block screwed on at the edge of the 2 pieces underneath. You can see the cedar and pine strips stacked below. I used a table saw and ripped them with a Freud 7 1/4 inch thin curf blade to 3/16 inch thick. The pine strips were 3/4 inch wide. The cedar was two widths, 3/4 and 1 1/2 inches wide. Since the panels were flat I was able to get away with using the wider strips. This would not have been the case if i was building a standard strip built boat with forms.
Prior to stripping, I covered the plywood template with plastic so the strips would not end up being inadvertently glued to the plywood. Here you can see the bottom was completely stripped. Strips were edge glued and stapled to the template. I did not do cove and bead strips due to everything being flat.
Then, a flush cut router bit is used to duplicate the shape of the template.
Next, I thickened some epoxy with west systems 404 filler. I did not use much, just enough to thicken the epoxy to fill in any small cracks in the edge joints, but not enough to notice visually. I applied this sealer coat with a squeegy.
When this coat was dry, I put a layer of 6 oz fiber glass cloth on the hull panel and applied epoxy with a squeegy. Two more coats were applied to fill the weave.
After the final coat was dry, the extra fiberglass at the edge was trimmed flush with the edge of the hull panel.
Craig