Okay perhaps this is a stupid question...
In reading over the various forums and such I see where the panels are put together using resin/wood flour mix and then resin and glass on a 'butt joint'.
Has anyone ever did a locking joint instead?
Would it work? There wouldn't be much room for any resin/flour mix between the panels. Could you use a epoxy only? Then do the resin glass technique on both sides of the joint?
I have no idea if a locking joint would create a stronger joint in boat building but it does in furniture making.
H
Locking joint?
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Kayak Jack
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Hunter,
A butt joint is a very simple one to do. It maintains the measurement of the two panels in their total length. Any other type of joint will disrupt the measurement and yield something other than the originally intended panel.
In addition to being simple and accurate, butt joints are strong and produce robust craft.
Other joints work too, but no better, just more complicatedly.
A butt joint is a very simple one to do. It maintains the measurement of the two panels in their total length. Any other type of joint will disrupt the measurement and yield something other than the originally intended panel.
In addition to being simple and accurate, butt joints are strong and produce robust craft.
Other joints work too, but no better, just more complicatedly.
Kayak Jack
Doing what you like is FREEDOM
Liking what you do is HAPPINESS
I spent most of my money on whiskey and women - and I'm afraid I just wasted the rest.
Doing what you like is FREEDOM
Liking what you do is HAPPINESS
I spent most of my money on whiskey and women - and I'm afraid I just wasted the rest.
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hairymick
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G'day Hunter,
I have played with a locking Joint instead of the stadard panel splice as is specified in Matt's plans. Other places call them a puzzle joint.
They are doable but are beyond my skill lefel to do them well enough to have the panels line up correctly for the QA (Quality Assurance) measurement checks.
1/2 a millimetre out on the joint will correspond to 10mm or more at the end of the panel and this is way to far out and will affect the hull form.
Matt's panel splices are well and truly strong enough. Trust him mate
If done properly, they will not fail. They are quick and easy to do, very strong and allow for perfect alignment with the QA checks so necessary BEFORE you start stitching.
I have played with a locking Joint instead of the stadard panel splice as is specified in Matt's plans. Other places call them a puzzle joint.
They are doable but are beyond my skill lefel to do them well enough to have the panels line up correctly for the QA (Quality Assurance) measurement checks.
1/2 a millimetre out on the joint will correspond to 10mm or more at the end of the panel and this is way to far out and will affect the hull form.
Matt's panel splices are well and truly strong enough. Trust him mate
If done properly, they will not fail. They are quick and easy to do, very strong and allow for perfect alignment with the QA checks so necessary BEFORE you start stitching. Regards,
Mick
JEMWATERCRAFT Swampgirl; Wadefish;Touring Pirogue;South Wind; P5 ;
Laker X 2, Sasquatch 16.5 T-V 15 Okwata 15:
Cobia 15 (under construction)
Mick
JEMWATERCRAFT Swampgirl; Wadefish;Touring Pirogue;South Wind; P5 ;
Laker X 2, Sasquatch 16.5 T-V 15 Okwata 15:
Cobia 15 (under construction)
The locking joint thing came up because I have used them in furniture making. And perhaps after building one (or two?) with the butt joint I may attempt a locking joint just because I think it would give the boat a different look. And I would utilize a fiberglass splice as well, that only makes good sense.
Matt I apologize for all the questions and I'm afraid they are just going to increase now that I have ordered my plans and looking to kick off the project this weekend.
H
Matt I apologize for all the questions and I'm afraid they are just going to increase now that I have ordered my plans and looking to kick off the project this weekend.
H
