JEM Watercraft

Oh god, Matt - now you got'im off double-naughtin' again. He'll be hell to deal with for the whole weekend now.

Sorry 'bout that, Javier. One of us should have inoculated you on that issue. (But, Matt told us not to.)

I don't know about you but when I asked Matt if I should say anything about that he told me there would be $20.00 in the mail for me if I forgot to say anything about it.

C'mon guys!! Talk about give ya mate up. Where's the loyalty - sheeeeesh.

Matt, is my check in the mail?

I'll bet we've got Javier scratching his head by now - ehh?

Paraphrasing Flip Wilson, "Da gritz made me do it!"

ROTFLMAO! I knew I could count on you guys to take that post in the spirit it was posted

Hey, I had to *send* Matt money. If I send him some plans will he send me cash too?

OK, lots of comments...

Matt - By "work in sections" what exactly do you mean? We applied the epoxy in sections starting with bottom center, but would you cut the cloth into several pieces and overlap, or what? Since the epoxy wicks into the cloth, once you get started you almost have to keep going until you're done. I mixed small batches - I must have done 8 batches - and never had problem with epoxy setting up, it just took forever and it didn't want to stay down.

Mick - great suggestion. Now you tell me. It must be easier for you since your canoes start upside down I'll try that on the next one. In spite of inside glassing, there WILL be a next one. I did use spring clamps to help hold the cloth on the sides, which did help some.

Chuck - Heck if you'd told me I would have matched Matt's $20 and thrown in some boiled peanuts! You'll notice he said there'd be $20 in the mail - he never said he'd be the one sending it! Oh and if you need any help with the new patient, holler! I'm right around the corner and would love to see a pro at work. (Notice I never actually volunteered to help). Unless you're glassing the inside, then I'm leaving the state just in case

You apply glass to like the front third, let it cure. Feather the edge, apply glass overlapping that edge a little, to another section. repeat until done.

I find it easiest to do the ends first. Then do the remaining middle all at once.

jcubero wrote:
Chuck .... If you need any help with the new patient, holler! I'm right around the corner and would love to see a pro at work.

Not sure about the pro part .. but thanks anyway.
I could give you a call and have you lend a helping hand but then I would have to have you stand in some epoxy till it cures ............right next to me.

I was told that no one (Not even myself) can see what this is till it is completed or I have to refund that $20.00 that I never got. Now with $20.00 being $20.00 this project will have the utmost security, even ole Pup's (my guard dog and faithful companion) has to wear blinders when he is in the shop with me.

Matt said , NOT To Trust anyone or anything on this project.

Pssssssssssst ... Over Here............There will be plenty of pictures, that camera and Pup's just do not listen to anyone or anything, they have a mind of there own.

Chuck.

Chuck,

Is Pups related to the dog on the bean commercial? Or was that you?

Javier, now that you know we truly are sorry (and, some of us are even worse than that - we're pathetic) you can join in the fun. Glassing the inside, and filleting are, for me, the two worst parts of making a boat. I don't know of anyone that enjoys either of those activities. (Anyone, that is, who has a rational mind. Well, wait a minute - hell forget it. No one on here qualifies.)

While I admit that I enjoy looking at the pictures of home made paddles under construction, but will continue to use the store-bought types.

OK, question about gunwales:

I'm doing inwale and outwale. As you guys saw, I've placed 1/4" spacers on the inside, I'm planning a 1/4" inwale strip from mahogany and 1/2" outwale also from mahogany.

I put the first piece on, and I'm concerned. There's quite a bit of torque on the boards to conform to the canoe sides. I used epoxy to glue it, but I'm not convinced it will hold. So, I was going to ask for the collective wisdom of this group....then I remembered who I was dealing with

1) What to glue it with? Epoxy, epoxy + wood flour, or good ol' wood glue?
2) Screw gunwale to boat?
3) Anything else you guys do? Short strips, long strips? Cutting curves in wood? kerfs? Build up a gunwale from epoxy and wood flour?

epoxy + wood flour is the only glue you should be using.

The gunwales will conform to the curve. they can take it and the epoxy + wood flour glue is stronger than you think.

Javier,

I hope you drew a pattern for, and cut, the gunnels up against the top panels of the hull. While it looks like a straight line - it isn't. The edge is actually a gentle curve.

You also have to be mindful to not clamp too tightly and squeeze out the epoxy. This will produce a "glue starved" joint that will fail easily. Epoxy is a "space filler" glue, and will wick into a space, or go in by capillary action of wetting a surface, then following the slime trail.

When loading gear for camping, I run a line zig zag through the gunnels over the gear so in case I capsize, the gear is held in. It actually becomes part of the flotation system of a flooded boat. This line, becomes a clothes line in camp, so use a white line that is easy to see so you don't run into it.

I used two of my spacers (with lightening holes in) glued to the bottom of the boat for cargo tie down points. The line (mentioned above) terminates in them.

Some guys carry clothes pins; I run doubled ropes, and twist them. Wet clothing can be slipped in betweent he twists and will hang there until dry. KISS principle.