Darrells wrote:No progress on the Stripper this weekend. About to leave on a Brazos fishing/camping trip in the Pirogue. High for today is supposed to be mid 70's with low tonight mid 50's. I can live with that. Building to resume Monday.
In your travels on the river if you see that Tx-River-Rat... Sink his boat. Or say .. Howdy for the rest of us.
Chuck.
Remember:
Amateurs built the Ark...... Professionals built the Titanic
Visit some fine paddlers at The Southern Paddler
OK done with the H&S bit now onto another pet subjects of mine how to get timber to do what you want. Take a length of plastic underground drainage pipe aprox the lenght of your timber strips. take one wallpaper stripper (Steam type) fill it up, set it going, place the steam feed tube in the drainage pipe feed your timber in one end and blank of with a cloth leave to steam for five mins(may take more or less). Take out and dry fit the now elastic timber to shape pining as required leave untill dry remove pins and glue shaped timber into place.
oh set up your tube with a upward angle to allow the steam to travel upwards and the condensated water to run away. Just one way to make timber do what you want it to.
Give it a try it works
All the best Graham
Life is what you make it but its what you make that improves your life.
1X Gander river canoe
offers to help support your build
Ok, I am back working on the Freedom. I was not happy with the Bead and Cove method.I worked fine on flat surfaces but did not look good on rounded surfaces. I got intouch with a man who builds marathon boats that lives close to me and he taught me how to bevel the strips. So far it has worked really well. Its easier and faster than the B&C method in my opinion. I will post some pics tonight.
Darrells wrote:Ok, I am back working on the Freedom. I was not happy with the Bead and Cove method.I worked fine on flat surfaces but did not look good on rounded surfaces. I got intouch with a man who builds marathon boats that lives close to me and he taught me how to bevel the strips. So far it has worked really well. Its easier and faster than the B&C method in my opinion. I will post some pics tonight.
That's always debate among strip builders: Bead and cove vs bevel. Any additional detail or photos you can offer on this would be great.
Darrell that's looking real good especially in the second pic - those curves look perfect.
It's interesting to see what you have discovered about the B&C vs bevel. I've read about both but never been too sure about what to believe (no experience at all). Your close up picture leaves little doubt, although it could be that some people are more suited to one or the other.
What are you using to bevel the strips - low angle block plane or a specialised tool? And how difficult is it?
Keep up the excellent work - it's a pleasure just watching this thing take shape:D
Cheers, Bob
Laker 13 - christened and slimed (just).
Laker accessories underway.
OnkaBob,
I am using a Stanley plane. It pretty simple to bevel, Just slightly plane the inside lower edge. I have my plane set really shallow and it has been taking two passes on most for a tight fit. I am sure B&C workss very well for some people just not me.
I see you have laid up the keel line strips and have seen this done on other stripper builds as well. Can you tell me why you have done this now please?
Re the bead & Cove verses bevelled strips, Gilpatrick, in his book doesn't recommend either. Rather just leave the strip edges square. his thinking is that the bevel is so slight tht it mkes little to no difference and what gap there is, is readily filled with epoxy later on anyway. I built one stripper this way, a Gilpatrick Puddleduck.
While my build was less tham good, the strips laid up well together and he was correct in that the gap between them on the outside of the hull was very small and became invisible with the first wet out coat of resin. just a thought.
