Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:16 pm
OK, another day of stitching and the frame is done! I put the top pieces together and pre-drilled the holes for both at the same time. Yep, it's a lot easier that way.
I checked the diagonals between the frames using an old trick. Take two sticks shorter than the diagonal and lay them together along the diagonal, one to each corner so they overlap in the middle. You then hold the sticks in the middle and bring them out to measure. If you measure this combined length, you have a very accurate inside measure, which is very difficult to get correct with a tape or ruler. For this application it was even easier - I didn't need an absolute measure, I was just checking that both diagonals were equal. SO place the sticks on one diagonal, then flip to the other. Amazingly, all but one diagonal was within 1/16th".
I then added battens between the frames. Self-tapping screws made that much easier - no pre-drilling required.
In this one, Kym pointed out that I'm wearing a t-shirt that says "Caution: Man with Power Tools" but I'm using a hand tool - on the edge of my table saw! Go figure. Hey, the t-shirt was free when I got my drill press at Woodcraft. I much prefer hand tools for small jobs. With that Japanese saw I have a 1x2 cut before I could set the fence on my table saw, much less clear all the junk that somehow always accumulates on top
OK, now the questions begin. The next step (pg 14) is "measure and cut battens equal the width of the frame tops." The picture seems to show these battens right above the frames. However, there's *no way* in our canoe that I can put a batten on top of the frames - they go almost to the top edge of the canoe. So, did I screw up, or am I misinterpreting the drawing? Can I put the battens next to each frame?
I'm also guessing that the ends of the battens shouldn't be parallel, but angled like the canoe side. This isn't mentioned in the instructions however.
I also did a bit of work on the seams. There were a couple spots where I had to take the hand plane and open up the gap a bit - most notably in bow and stern.
So this means tomorrow I can flip the hull onto a level surface, check for any twist, and start filleting?
I've got a ton of questions on filleting - even after reading the forum.
1) Does it matter if you fillet from the outside or from the inside? Is one easier than the other to start?
2) I have Kym helping me, so if one of us is on each side, can we avoid masking and realistically do in&out side at once?
3) Should I apply epoxy to all the edges with a brush first, and let cure overnight? Will this make my fillets better?
This one is for old sparkey - do you do the epoxy fill coat before or after the fillets? (I'm guessing after, and just the day before glassing).
I checked the diagonals between the frames using an old trick. Take two sticks shorter than the diagonal and lay them together along the diagonal, one to each corner so they overlap in the middle. You then hold the sticks in the middle and bring them out to measure. If you measure this combined length, you have a very accurate inside measure, which is very difficult to get correct with a tape or ruler. For this application it was even easier - I didn't need an absolute measure, I was just checking that both diagonals were equal. SO place the sticks on one diagonal, then flip to the other. Amazingly, all but one diagonal was within 1/16th".
I then added battens between the frames. Self-tapping screws made that much easier - no pre-drilling required.
In this one, Kym pointed out that I'm wearing a t-shirt that says "Caution: Man with Power Tools" but I'm using a hand tool - on the edge of my table saw! Go figure. Hey, the t-shirt was free when I got my drill press at Woodcraft. I much prefer hand tools for small jobs. With that Japanese saw I have a 1x2 cut before I could set the fence on my table saw, much less clear all the junk that somehow always accumulates on top
OK, now the questions begin. The next step (pg 14) is "measure and cut battens equal the width of the frame tops." The picture seems to show these battens right above the frames. However, there's *no way* in our canoe that I can put a batten on top of the frames - they go almost to the top edge of the canoe. So, did I screw up, or am I misinterpreting the drawing? Can I put the battens next to each frame?
I'm also guessing that the ends of the battens shouldn't be parallel, but angled like the canoe side. This isn't mentioned in the instructions however.
I also did a bit of work on the seams. There were a couple spots where I had to take the hand plane and open up the gap a bit - most notably in bow and stern.
So this means tomorrow I can flip the hull onto a level surface, check for any twist, and start filleting?
I've got a ton of questions on filleting - even after reading the forum.
1) Does it matter if you fillet from the outside or from the inside? Is one easier than the other to start?
2) I have Kym helping me, so if one of us is on each side, can we avoid masking and realistically do in&out side at once?
3) Should I apply epoxy to all the edges with a brush first, and let cure overnight? Will this make my fillets better?
This one is for old sparkey - do you do the epoxy fill coat before or after the fillets? (I'm guessing after, and just the day before glassing).