JEM Watercraft

Craig,
thanks for the link to the stripper build. My buddy and I have two cedar logs planked into three inch slabs to start cutting strips out of if we can ever find time to do it. Two more trees are waiting to be trimmed and slabbed. After Ike I was told I could have all the trees that came down on one guy's place but could not get to them before FEMA cut em up and hauled em off. Longest cleanest logs you ever saw. That was cedar you could only dream about.
Thanks again for the link.
Bob

No problem. To bad about losing those logs. Could have made a lot of boats.

I decided that I wanted the front hatch area completely isolated from the cockpit storage area creating three separate water tight compartments. Therefore, it should be unsinkable, just like the Titanic. I still wanted an internal rod rack up front so I took a cedar 2X4 and used a 2 1/2 inch hole saw and cut 4 round chunks of cedar. Then using the 2 inch hole saw, I turned those chunks into cedar tubes. Utilizing the round cutouts from making the holes in the bulkhead plywood, I made cedar cups by gluing the ply into the base of the cedar tubes. I then glued these onto the aft side of the bulkhead to make the rod rack water tight. I stuck pipe insulation in to cushion the rod handles.




You can also see I had to glue back into place three of the "weight saving" cut outs to make the front watertight. On a side note, to determine how much weight I saved by cutting out all the holes, I weighed all the left over cut-outs, including the ones that the plans say to cut out for drainage purposes. The grand total weight savings was less than 1 1/2 pounds. The extra work in making sure all the holes were sealed with epoxy was not worth the 1 1/2 pounds.

Here is the six inch quarter turn deck plate that allows me access to the front cargo area and my rods.

I also intend to have a hatch on the front deck to place larger things inside.

The eight inch deck plate on the cockpit floor allows me to store five 10 3/4 by 7 inch tackle trays (Shimano or Plano are what I have tried) under the cockpit. I don't need anywhere to store fish since I never catch any.



I had to make one of the arched cutouts (on each side) in the cockpit support frame into a square cutout to store that many.



I didn't get much done this weekend other that plan all the rigging, so I know where to re-enforce the side panels. Also, I built my anchor trolley. I may put one on each side. I haven't yet decided. It can't hurt and shouldn't add much weight. Had to place another order to Duckworks for more rigging hardware for the Sabalo and whatever comes next

Also added some more 4 oz fiber glass to the order for this 18 1/2 foot beast. It will be the family truckster. The six month old should be old enough to paddle next summer so I still have a little time. Anyone gonna be in Oregon that likes to sand?

Oh my!

Mate, I have been quietly enjoying your build thread all this time and picking up some very good ideas to boot and then you come along and oh so casually just happen to mention that you are also building a magnificent stripper at the same time!

Both boats are testement to your skill and craftsmanship mate. Your Sabalo build is the best I have seen and the lines of that stripper just take my breath away.

respectfully,


mick

Your Sabalo build is the best I have seen and the lines of that stripper just take my breath away.

I don't know about that. I am trying to at least match Paul's (Bemm52) beautiful Sabalo. I have a copy of his finished Sabalo on the beach on my computer desktop for inspiration. Also, for rigging ideas. One problem I have is that I couldn't find as beautiful of grained plywood as he has on his. I bought the last five sheets they had at the supplier I purchased from. Therefore, I couldn't be picky.

The stripper I started building in October of last year. Technically I started six years ago. Thats when I bought the book by Gil Gilpatrick that had the plans in it. Five years ago I cut the forms, but I didn't have a big enough area to build in. Three years ago I covered my back deck so the kids could play during the rainy season. Last October I decided I needed a boat that could carry five since we were expecting another last January. I also built a garden shed last October so I could get all the big bulky items out of my garage that were interfering with my boat building. Now I have room in the garage so I can start sanding and fiberglassing the outside. Then I can get it off the forms and bring it into the garage. There is no way I could varnish it outside with all the pollen in the air.

It is 18.5' X 34 1/2". I think it looks a lot like Matt's Trapper. After seeing your Sasquatch I almost didn't build this one. I love that Sasquatch, you did a beautiful job on it. If Matt would have had the 18.5 at the time I started, it would have been a very difficult decision. However, I had so many boards collected over the years for strips I needed to use them. And boy did I ever need a lot for this one. I have enough left over that I may do another Pirogue or the Laker in strips. I would use plywood for the Laker bottom since it would be covered in Graphite anyways.

Great looking compartments

Mike

Great looking compartments

Thanks

Snuck a couple more orders in under the radar

Got some new fittings from Duckworks and another 20 yards of the 4 oz cloth for the canoe.

Also got the Scotty triple mount



pole extender



and rod holder extender



Now that I am done figuring out the rigging, Its time to finish glassing and gluing so I can start floating and paddling

Figured out how to make some waterproof through hull fittings so I can run my transducer cable out of the rear bulkhead and down the rear scupper hole. I chose not to glue it in place so I could move it from boat to boat. Also, I will limit my holes to just the middle section of the boat between the front and rear watertight bulkheads.

I bought these water tight electrical conduit fittings for $1.94 and the white pvc 1/2 end caps for $0.65 at Lowe's. For the fitting where the wire will come from the scupper through the bulkhead, I cut off the longer threaded portion (the one on the left). I drilled a hole through the end caps. One of which I cut and sanded down to stick up less. This is the one that will feed the wire up though the cockpit well floor to the fish finder (the parts on the right). I will first attempt to use a manmade wine cork with a hole in the middle that will fit tight to the cable. I will then slit the side of the cork to the hole to slide the wire in. I cant just fit it through the hole because the plug is so much larger than the cable. Then when the pvc end cap is screwed on, the cork will act as a compression fitting. I would use a rubber stopper, but they cost almost as much as a cheap bottle of wine with a man made cork.

Or I could by one of these at the marine store, but its $14.99 for one. Thats a lot of cheap wine!

Here is what the scupper through bulkhead fitting looks like in place

Another view with the rear hatch deck in place (not glued, just fitting it).

Here is the fitting for the cockpit well

At one time I had considered using 1/2 inch tygon tubing as a channel from the rear bulkhead to the cockpit fitting and not worry about a cork. The water would be trapped in the tubing and it would make removing the wiring easier when transferring the FF from boat to boat. However, I didn't feel the extra weight and expense was worth it. I can always go back to that if I feel its necessary.

I was also able to glass what will be the underside of the front deck panel


And the cockpit well. The small hole towards the front (bottom 1/3 of photo) is where the transducer cable fitting will be installed.

Last Monday I glued in the cockpit and used everything I could find to use as weights.




Then I had to leave for the week so not much else done.

I remember the stage your at well

I was amazed at how all the panels met up to tankwell and cockpit with so little to trim,if any

A real credit to Matts draftsmanship I thinks