G'day guys,
Not much done yesterday but I actually got round to reading Matts build instructions. Seems most of the information I just posted is allready in them. - sorry.
I got the inside cleaned up a bit and a third fill coat applied. Seat and supports are cut.
Matt, I notice the forward seat support goes right on top of the centre panel splice. Do you think it would be worth gluing a 2" strip of ply underneith the seat support to spread the load a bit? I am only using 1/8" ply.
Also got the forward and rear deck supports cut and dry fitted. I was going to install bulkheads and hatches but have had a change of heart. My ideas for the rear deck are still evolving.
My constant gripe with my other skinny water kayak is that there is nowhere much to put stuff that can be easily accessed while on the water. I am trying to rectify that with this one.
Off to work for a couple of days now. Hope to make a little more progress on the week-end.
Hairy's Laker
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That is one aspect of the design that bothered me but there was no way around.hairymick wrote:
Matt, I notice the forward seat support goes right on top of the centre panel splice. Do you think it would be worth gluing a 2" strip of ply underneith the seat support to spread the load a bit? I am only using 1/8" ply.
But yours is a simple, and functional solution!
-Matt. Designer.
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laker kayak
Matt:
is the boat Mick is working on, Hairy's Laker, the same as the laker kayak you have posted with your plans. If it different what are the demensions?
Thanks
is the boat Mick is working on, Hairy's Laker, the same as the laker kayak you have posted with your plans. If it different what are the demensions?
Thanks
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The boat Mick is working on is this one:
http://www.jemwatercraft.com/proddetail.php?prod=Laker
is very similar to the free version of the Laker, but not exactly the same.
http://www.jemwatercraft.com/proddetail.php?prod=Laker
is very similar to the free version of the Laker, but not exactly the same.
-Matt. Designer.
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Seat supports are in. I decided to cut the front support out of 3/4" pine. It will help spread the load over the butt splice and onto the ply panels. also did a heavy woodflour fillet each side
An added benifiet of the 3/4" pine was that I could cut a rebate into the back edge to hide the edge grain of the ply. Also used a router with a roundover bit to take the sharp lorner of the front of the support.
Addted a sheer clamp, just cause I could.
An added benifiet of the 3/4" pine was that I could cut a rebate into the back edge to hide the edge grain of the ply. Also used a router with a roundover bit to take the sharp lorner of the front of the support.
Addted a sheer clamp, just cause I could.
Regards,
Mick
JEMWATERCRAFT Swampgirl; Wadefish;Touring Pirogue;South Wind; P5 ;
Laker X 2, Sasquatch 16.5 T-V 15 Okwata 15:
Cobia 15 (under construction)
Mick
JEMWATERCRAFT Swampgirl; Wadefish;Touring Pirogue;South Wind; P5 ;
Laker X 2, Sasquatch 16.5 T-V 15 Okwata 15:
Cobia 15 (under construction)
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Deck supports are stitched and tacked in place.
I will never use cheap ply again. if you look at the last piccie, it is pretty obvious that the ply has warped. I have had a heck of a job muscling it into place. that is as close as I could get it. When the deck go on, the stitches should pull the rest of it back pretty close.
If anybody who reads this is considering a build, I would urge you to get marine grade plywood of the best quality you can afford. By doing this, you will save a lot of time and heartache. Struggling with cheap rubbish ply really takes the fun out of this caper.
I will never use cheap ply again. if you look at the last piccie, it is pretty obvious that the ply has warped. I have had a heck of a job muscling it into place. that is as close as I could get it. When the deck go on, the stitches should pull the rest of it back pretty close.
If anybody who reads this is considering a build, I would urge you to get marine grade plywood of the best quality you can afford. By doing this, you will save a lot of time and heartache. Struggling with cheap rubbish ply really takes the fun out of this caper.
Regards,
Mick
JEMWATERCRAFT Swampgirl; Wadefish;Touring Pirogue;South Wind; P5 ;
Laker X 2, Sasquatch 16.5 T-V 15 Okwata 15:
Cobia 15 (under construction)
Mick
JEMWATERCRAFT Swampgirl; Wadefish;Touring Pirogue;South Wind; P5 ;
Laker X 2, Sasquatch 16.5 T-V 15 Okwata 15:
Cobia 15 (under construction)
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I noticed that the rear deck has been flatten and the peak is gone , Should make for a comfortable paddle when seated in it.
Looking at the boat , the bulkheads are on the top ( for the deck support only) not solid like normal ones? I see a substantially weight reduction there and ease of building.
Mick ... I have to ask this...
The seams that you are filling , do you use that much wood flour and epoxy all the time , do you go back and smooth it out before it sets or just do a lot of sanding ?
If you would get some dental syringes you could do twice the area with the same amount by only slightly overfilling the seams. Some acetone cleans out the syringes , I have made all my boats with the same pair I started with.
Chuck.
Looking at the boat , the bulkheads are on the top ( for the deck support only) not solid like normal ones? I see a substantially weight reduction there and ease of building.
Mick ... I have to ask this...
The seams that you are filling , do you use that much wood flour and epoxy all the time , do you go back and smooth it out before it sets or just do a lot of sanding ?
If you would get some dental syringes you could do twice the area with the same amount by only slightly overfilling the seams. Some acetone cleans out the syringes , I have made all my boats with the same pair I started with.
Chuck.
Remember:
Amateurs built the Ark...... Professionals built the Titanic
Visit some fine paddlers at The Southern Paddler
Amateurs built the Ark...... Professionals built the Titanic
Visit some fine paddlers at The Southern Paddler