Muskoka in the Philippines

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jem
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Post by jem »

Gunwale: Any way you could rip that down to 2 layers of 12mm thick and 12.5mm tall? You could then glue on on layer at the very top of the sheer (do this as neat as you can with no drips or runs) and then glue the other layer right under it. This should be plenty strong since you have a multi chined hull. Be sure to stagger where the strips butt together, even if you use a scarf joint.


Bit of advice for an experience I had this weekend: Shape the cross section of your gunwales BEFORE you install them. I wasn't thinking and put a square piece of lumber on my canoe and trying to round the edges while it's glued to the hull is a pain. :?
-Matt. Designer.
lncc63
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Post by lncc63 »

Don't you sleep Matt!? There is an 8-10 hour time difference between us and still you always answer my questions within minutes of my posting them. Man talk about obsessed with customer service :D.

The piece in the photo is actually from a 2"x4"x10' that I ripped then thickness planed to 12mm, had no choice since it was rough lumber. Except for the piece in the photo all the others are still 2" tall so to do as you say should not be a problem. I'll do a dry fit and let you know but that may still be on Saturday, day job :(. Stagger the scarphs - got that.

By the way, normally I use kiln dried S4S but this time I thought I'd try S2S sundried. Any opinion on this choice? I could still get kiln dried.
Louis
jem
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Post by jem »

Well it's about 8:30 am so your posting at "prime time".

Kiln dried will probably be "more dry" but I think either would be fine. I guess if the cost and hassle to get it is about the same, get the kiln dried.
-Matt. Designer.
lncc63
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Post by lncc63 »

Thanks Matt will keep the kiln dried in mind.
Louis
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Post by surfman »

jem wrote:Gunwale: Any way you could rip that down to 2 layers of 12mm thick and 12.5mm tall? You could then glue on on layer at the very top of the sheer (do this as neat as you can with no drips or runs) and then glue the other layer right under it. This should be plenty strong since you have a multi chined hull. Be sure to stagger where the strips butt together, even if you use a scarf joint.


Bit of advice for an experience I had this weekend: Shape the cross section of your gunwales BEFORE you install them. I wasn't thinking and put a square piece of lumber on my canoe and trying to round the edges while it's glued to the hull is a pain. :?
I am in the process of trying to install my gunwales also and had the same problem I am doing what Matt suggested. It is more steps but there is no way to bend a heavy piece of wood in 2 directions and not have to clamp the heck out of it.
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Post by hairymick »

Heya Louis,

Your boat is coming along beautifully mate.

Re the edge bends on your gunwhales, They are never easy. Looking at your boat, there doesn't seem to be too much edge bend required for the Muskoka. 25 X 12 hardwood should accommodate that easy enough.

If you need more clamps, I would suggest you get them. I would start about mid ships (both sides at the same time) clamp in position there and gradually work towards the ends clamping as I went and creap up on the total edge bend needed.

This way, the bend is controlled and the load required is gradually increased. The previous clamp is allready holding the existing load so you only need to worry about the few extra mm of bend for the next clamp.
Regards,
Mick

JEMWATERCRAFT Swampgirl; Wadefish;Touring Pirogue;South Wind; P5 ;
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lncc63
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Post by lncc63 »

Thanks guys. It is comforting to know that it can be done. On my first boat I laminated plywood but of course had to paint it. The plywood was very easy to bend even though I put 3" wide rubrails. Not sure if I'll be able to do it but natural wood rails are so much nicer to look at.

I'll give your suggestion a try first, Hairymick. Yeah I agree I need more clamps. I was thinking to use to PVC clamps but I doubt if they have the necessary holding power for my particular situation.

Thanks guys, I'll keep you posted.
Louis
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Post by Kayak Jack »

I cheated on my boat. I laid the next to the last panel on a piece of plywood, drew a curved line, and cut the piece already curved along its length. Had to bend it in only one axis that way.

Laziness is (one of) the mother(s) of invention.
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lncc63
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Post by lncc63 »

That's a niffy idea. I could even use the scraps from the sheets I cut the panels from.

This reminds me. After cutting the first sheet, I used the panel pieces at templates for the other halves which for the Muskoka were exactly the same. Since I had templates I compressed their layout on the uncut sheets and was able to salvage about an 8" wide full length section. This is a lot of wood which if the hardwood gunwhales don't cooperate will be used instead.

This is not to suggest compressing Matt's nestings which have to be cut freehand.
Louis
jem
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Post by jem »

if you have the first copies of the panels cut out, you can compress as much as you want. 8)
-Matt. Designer.
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