JEM Watercraft

Mick is doing this deck "by eye". I didn't design it. But he is follow the method I prescribed in a different set of plans.

Mick,

I did a variation of what Chuck mentioned. I fiberglassed the entire deck inside and out on a kayak I built. Then, I marked out the hatch opening and very carefully cut on the lines with a circular saw with a thin kerf blade. I connected the cuts with a Japanese pull saw. To be sure the hatches didn't loose their shape, I added stiffeners after cutting them out. I also sealed the newly exposed wood edges with epoxy.

I then attached the sealing lip to the inside /under side of the deck and glued on a marine hatch gasket. The hatches have held their shape well.

Craig

That's what I did on the one kayak I made with the hatches and they fit like a normal glove on your hand when done. When everything was completed and I dropped the hatch cover in the cut out area I could not get it out due to the fit. Had to use some tape on it to pull it back out.

The darn thing wanted to become part of the deck again. Three risers ( half of a wood doweling about 1 1/2 inches long ) on each side for some extra leverage when strapping it down make it easy to remove , just grab one and pick it up when the straps holding it down are off.

A picture always helps to explain things......



Chuck

Looking good Mick

OK, had a few dramas getting the hatch to fit nice but is OK now. Not pretty, but OK When I get more ply out from my stash, will probably cut another one and re-do it.



bulkheads are filleted



backing plate and end-pour for carry handle (on bow)



ditto stern deck



Stern deck supports with shear clamps glued on.



Bow deck tacked down





While I was messing round with the other stuff, started on my version of a Sparkinator type seat.

Bit more done but other stuff keeps getting in the way.

Started laminating up a coaming lip in the fore-deck



Back deck is tacked down now and the hatch is about as good a fit as it is ever going to be.

This is the very last time I try to install a hatch in a rounded deck - particularly so when only working by eye.

Note to anybody reading this. Stick to the bloody plans - as they are drawn. If you want a different deck, pay a little more and Ask Matt to draw it for you. Learn from my mistake here. I have spent days struggling with this and am totally sick of this build.

Ahh, Mick.......Think of the joy you'll get when she's finished, looking all spick....and handing her over to her new owner.

You're a determined guy, Mick. Darned good thing!

Mick
You don't like doing it bye eye , come on mate it is more fun that way.

RUNNING FOR COVER HERE

Ron

Thanks guys,

got Robin home at the moment sick with the flu - again so not much getting done in any great hurry.

Ron Wrote

Mick
You don't like doing it bye eye , come on mate it is more fun that way.

Actually mate, I have enjoyed the challenge but my rear hatch just about drove me mad. I think a peaked or multi panel deck as in Laker is a way better option. Is less work and time consuming in the long run and is no less attractive in my eye.

Simple, clear, rounded decks without hatches are easy enough to do but it went pear shaped for me in getting my hatch to remain conformed to the deck shape.

I have some thoughts on this and am playing with a concept as we speak, but I don't think I like the rounded decks enough to be bothered building another one.

What I do really like is my rounded front coaming lip. Not sure ye how to achieve this in a peaked deck but playing with that too.

I bought plans for beautiful Okwata some time ago and am certain now the rounded decks as drawn, are do-able but I would much prefer to build her with a Laker style deck and will probably go down this path when the time comes.