JEM Watercraft

PSS
Another dumb newbie question. What is the problem with using butt blocks with a seat option?
Thanks
Roger

rodot wrote: What holds the frames in place after I remove the stitches.

If they fall out, you could duct tape them into place.

rodot wrote:What is the problem with using butt blocks with a seat option?

no real problem. If constructing any sort of permanent platform, you may have to trim some piece to fit around the butt block. Depends on your seat platform.

rodot wrote: Is it worthwhile chamering or rounding off the inside edges of the panels slightly to aid in aligning the panels when stitching. I would think that it would be easier than stitching together two sharp edges.

No need for that. In fact I recommend you don't. The small "V" crevices made are ideal for the filleting material. The panels don't slip over each other like you think they would.

One more quick trick--instead of trying to erase pencil marking, use a cloth with denatured alcohol. They will wipe off with little effort and darned little smearing. An eraser always seemed to smear mine more than remove them.

Rodot,

they are fine looking panels, you should have no problem with them coming together beautifully, in fact if they are as good as they look there will be no room for the glue in the joins . Are you using paddlepop sticks for spacers? if so this won't be a problem, if not just be a little careful not to pull the stitches too tight too quickly, give your self some room to adjust the panels and if you can find something thinner than a paddlepop stick think about using this at the bow and stern where the panels have very shallow chines (where they line up smoothly).

Also consider drilling the holes for the stitches a little closer at the bow and stern to help with panel alignment, I struggled with the Southwind and Sasquatch because I tried to space out the holes a bit more.

That's enough from me, I can see this is going to be a nice build, well done.

Tor

Thanks guys

The pencil lines rubbed off pretty easily actually. I used a very soft 6b pencil. Will remember about the metho (denatured alcahol) but I wasnt sure whether it would have any effect on later fiberglassing. It appears not.
Couldn't decide on using butt joints or fibreglass so I tossed a coin, tails won, fiberglass it is. Likewise I am not real sure about the paddle pop sticks. When it comes time, I might just stitch it together loosely with copper wire and see what it looks like. I picked up a stack off ebay pretty cheap.
Oh well off to do some fiberglassing now.

Cheers
Roger

G'day Roger,

Nice work so far mate.

Re the paddle pop sticks.

I have built using both methods and both work fine.

I find not using them a little quicker and it allows me to eyeball the seams better for fairness.

Hi Roger,
welcome to the world of Okwata.
Its looking good mate and I'm sure you will enjoy the build as you progress further.
I have included a pic below where you can glue without drilling and adding stitches by simply using dowel and wire. I trialled it with my deck (okwata) and managed to get the whole deck finished without drilling and stitching. I must admit it is a little fiddly however it's entirely up to you I have added some more detail on how-to in my build. Also sifted saw dust added to your epoxy mix when filleting comes up a treat as well (Thanks Bemm).
Good luck and keep posting them pics

Hi Dodger,
I followed your boat build with great interest. Very impressive with a great result of which you can be proud. As a virgin I am trying to stick with the KISS principle. I'm not sure if I am that adventurous. Your method certainly does give a great result however.
Thanks for your help.
Roger

I've been away for a week or so but now its back to the build. All panels are joined with fiberglass.

First drama... A gust of wind through the shed and plans blown everywhere. Couldn't find the frame reference sheet so sent an email to Matt. He sent me a copy within minutes. Thanks Matt. I wish everyone could give the backup that Matt does. Excellent.
Wired the hull together and found a gap of over 6mm in the middle. When I clamped the hull to pull it together I ended up with quite a dip. The photo shows it.

I am going to have a break and take the dog for a walk and forget about it for a while.
I guess tomorrow I will have to decide whether to have a big gap, a dip in the hull, or undo some stitches an cut away some of the high spots.
Cheers
Roger

Hi Roger, progress looks pretty good to me. Don't let the dip get you down - it's happened at this stage on a few builds and it's just a matter of a bit of judicious planing and/or inserting spacers.

To get an idea of how much change you need to make try undoing the ties where the dip is and inserting some spacers (paddle pop sticks or ply scraps) - this will make that section rise. If it is not high enough with one thickness of spacer then put 2 or more in until it is right. The amount of spacing will need to taper off as you approach the high spots. When you have it spaced so the keel line is fair then you can check how much gap there is in the centre and make an informed decision about whether it is small enough to fill or planing of the high spots is required.

With my Laker I just added more filler. If it was on the side or the deck then it would have been worth more effort to keep the gap consistent but along the keel line it just won't be noticed. It's more important to be sound and fair than to have a consistent gap there (my opinion only).

I like the pic of the panels laid out on the floor. Did that too - it's when the excitement and anticipation both go up a notch as you try to picture how it's going to look.