Finally got back to work on the canoe.
Figured out a way to offset the butt joints. I cut a 4 x 8 panel in half lengthwise, then cut one of those in half. I spliced the entire panel together with a slight offset to account for the curve of the piece I was cutting out. In the Iroquois plans, the middle panel will work this way. This is what it looked like before I cut out the middle panels. (for some reason, I can't get the picture turned the right way, even though on photobucket it is...)
Then I went ahead and stitched in the frames. I'll finish drilling and stitching soon...
That last pic shows how the joints are now offset on the canoe...
JT's Iroquois
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Looking GOOD.........
Chuck
Chuck
Remember:
Amateurs built the Ark...... Professionals built the Titanic
Visit some fine paddlers at The Southern Paddler
Amateurs built the Ark...... Professionals built the Titanic
Visit some fine paddlers at The Southern Paddler
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- Design Reviewer
- Posts: 1272
- Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2004 11:08 am
- Type of boat I like: Wood boats .
- Location: Somewhere around Central Florida
- Contact:
Nice job on the ends with the epoxy and wood flour.
Chuck.
Chuck.
Remember:
Amateurs built the Ark...... Professionals built the Titanic
Visit some fine paddlers at The Southern Paddler
Amateurs built the Ark...... Professionals built the Titanic
Visit some fine paddlers at The Southern Paddler
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- Location: Denton, TX
Thanks.
Tried to do an end pour--twice. First time the epoxy/wood flour mix broke through the dam(n) and flooded the floor of the canoe. So I cleaned that up and made a thicker mix--much harder to get in place. Once that hardened though, I replaced the dam--added much more tape and tried to add to the end pour. Wasn't quite as thick, still pour-able, and same thing--the dam(n) gave way.
Soooo, I took the whole thing outside and propped it up in the sun
This helped slow the flow enough to stay behind the tape, and it sped up the curing of the epoxy in the sun--(and it was not a windy day or I wouldn't have propped it this way...)
Tried to do an end pour--twice. First time the epoxy/wood flour mix broke through the dam(n) and flooded the floor of the canoe. So I cleaned that up and made a thicker mix--much harder to get in place. Once that hardened though, I replaced the dam--added much more tape and tried to add to the end pour. Wasn't quite as thick, still pour-able, and same thing--the dam(n) gave way.
Soooo, I took the whole thing outside and propped it up in the sun
This helped slow the flow enough to stay behind the tape, and it sped up the curing of the epoxy in the sun--(and it was not a windy day or I wouldn't have propped it this way...)
Jeremy
Live and learn...
Live and learn...
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- Posts: 46
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- Type of boat I like: <-- Please read instructions to the left and delete this text. Then, tell us what type boat you like! :-)
- Location: Denton, TX
And I'm no longer sure that I'll be doing an end pour on the other end...
So, onto a "dumb" question. If you cartop on a rack of some sort, do you really need the extra substance on the end, or is most of the tiedown happening in the middle at the rack???
How necessary is the other end pour? Any other techniques, tips, or tricks to try?
So, onto a "dumb" question. If you cartop on a rack of some sort, do you really need the extra substance on the end, or is most of the tiedown happening in the middle at the rack???
How necessary is the other end pour? Any other techniques, tips, or tricks to try?
Jeremy
Live and learn...
Live and learn...