JEM Watercraft

I think you have enough room. Glue some blocks on the inside of the longitudinal frames and screw the hatch attachment screws into them. Unless you're talking about vertical room.

Yeah, I am talking about vertical room. Bring a line up from the red string to the lowest portion of the front or rear flange of the hatch there is only 2.5-3.0 inches. Little more if I move the hatch back, less if I move it forward. Even less out to the sides.

DM

DM,
I think the hatch is too large for the location you have it test-fitted. The only logical use of that hatch would be to place it way forward in the well and have a rod storage layout using large cutouts in the front bulkhead for the rod to pass through using a round rod case for protection. It lays loose on the hull panels.
I suggest adopting the Bluefish front hatch layout and that area is your main storage. Sitting on a hatch for several hours isn't comfortable even with a padded seat/backrest. The disadvantages quickly outnumber the advantages.
Craig

The hatch would fit, it is located in the leg area of the cock pit, not the seat area. I don't think the rectangular hatch would be practical. In the picture the seat plank is shown. Two boards on the bottom to represent the hull.

The plan was to have a sealed compartment utilizing the cock pit frame (the longitudinal and bulkhead frames), the hull and the cock pit itself. Would have ended up being about 36" long by 11" wide. The available depth is why I am reconsidering using that hatch.
The room towards the rear of the hatch has barely enough room for a soft drink can.

The room towards the front of the hatch wont even take a soft drink can. Moving that hatch forward would only make that clearance only smaller.

So, I am leaning towards still doing the sealed compartment, but using a 8" diameter deck plate instead of the 11" x 15" hatch.

DM

Could the hatch cover be elevated to gain clearance underneath it?

Kayak Jack wrote:Could the hatch cover be elevated to gain clearance underneath it?

I think the answer to that will have wait till I get farther along in the build. At least once I get to cock pit assembled. The initial thoughts are that it "could" work, once I know where my legs are going to actually be. Don't want it to close to the seat that my legs may rub against it, or to far away that the foot braces would interfere with the hatch opening.

DM

OK, pretty much what I expected. Too early to tell. So, let me toss around some other thoughts?

1. If I understand right, you have a smaller, circular hatch as a possible? this would be constructed of wood, with a band of plywood around the opening underneath the "deck", with maybe a seal on it? If you do this, you might consider applying some silicone grease to teh seal on both the hatch and the hatch lid.

2. An oval hatch similar to the circular one is a possible.

3. A larger opening with hinged door(s) instead of a hatch lid. Again, seals along all edges and center joint if you use two doors. Silicone grease on all seals.

DM,
Yes, your last point is more practical approach 8in diameter would be enough to retrieve things and sponge-out water, fish blood, etc. There are other approaches for live bait tanks or bait tubes made from PVC that are just as convenient as between your legs luxury tanks. I like the Hobie round hatches that they source from Viking Marine, order thru Hobie web or dealer.
Scottrunner's front hatch layout is what I was refering about, order another 8in or hopefully 10inch round will fit would be great. His location is very wise.
Jack,
If your gonna raise the hatch, you may as well buy a large plastic container and strap it into the front well area.
Craig

Craig Lewis wrote:Jack, If your gonna raise the hatch, you may as well buy a large plastic container and strap it into the front well area.

Sounds like a 5 gallon plastic bucket with a Magna seal on it?

The cockpit floor was designed with an 8" hatch in mind. But just for items like sponge, food, keys, etc.

Bait tank or well wasn't really factored into that.