Design questions of the Garvey Flex models

[Kicknback]

Ahoy! I'm a newbie to this forum, an experienced woodworker, yet a greenhorn when it comes to boat building, however I'm preparing myself to make a big stab at it. I'll try not to bore anyone, & cram a lot into a short space.

I have been studying the Garvey Type boats & have decided that it should be my first attempt, as at my age it may well be the last. For my purposes, wants & needs, I have spent weeks in the decision making. Only to find out that I can't seem to find any web address to order the plans I had decided on, as it appears "Dynamite" must have retired. His web site order forms didn't come up for me, and in the process of looking for them I ran across your sites, Mortons and Matts. So, then I started over again, studying your plans..

Now, having tons more info than is necessary at this time, I have decided that I would like to build the Garvey Flex 12', but with a few modifications (what's new?). I'll state some of the reasons, possibly giving you Ol' Salts some new leather to chew on, and some of you fellow novices some things to think about when you start to build. I may have to put this in MY Wish List also... ?

I am looking for a boat that I can cartop on the Toad we tow behind the motorhome. When we go camping we can either tow the car, or take our runnabout boat, but can't have both unless we take another extra vehicle also.

So I would like to build one that's easily manhandled by one man, light enuff to be cartopped, yet big enough to fit 3 adults cozily, stable enough for us old obese folks on teetery sea legs to enter and exit without ending up in the soup. Therefore, I would like the shorter GF12 to have the beam of the GF14, at 5' 3" or more). I also like the depth of the 14'er, but didn't care for the 14' plans as the floor appeared to offer more stumbling obstacles for strength to worry about, not in the 12'er, and had the extra weight of course.

I'd like her to be structurely strong enough to handle a 10 HP (as that's what I have) at speeds and chop(with the wider panels)....

I like having the rear seat moved forward as in the 12'er, yet I would like to see it replaced with split seats in the rear, attached to the stern (for strength) and stretched even farther forward for leading edge. They could then be used fruitfully with a small outboard. The reason being: if you've ever had a boat with a rear seat up tight against the stern then you know how hard it is to steer, forcing you to move forward anyway or stand, and making the seat itself pretty much worthless.

This would also provide room for a 6 gal. tank between the seats in the rear, and if the seats had liftable hatch lids then a place for a 12v. batt. also (opposite the seat you would normally sit on to drive).

This would also move the load forward if there were only one occupant, thus bringing the nose down a little from the awkward attitude it takes with only one person in the boat.

I'm sure there are nautical terms for everything I'm mentioning, Please have patience with me as l'm reaching beyond my everyday working vocabulary and it will take time for me to gather it all in.

Some other little things I would like to see, like changing the front seat into a deck on the top, mainly for appearances, with stow hatch under, yet could still be used as a third seat if "still" fishing.

These ideas aren't new to me, and I have formulated some drawings from a few years back when I first conceived the ideas. I don't know how to post html or pics on here yet, so anything would have to be transmitted by email until I get my sea legs.

The 12' Dingy Vee (strengthened & with wider beam) might even be a starting point... haven't looked at it that much.

Any ideas? All thoughts appreciated. And if this ol' fogey appears foggy, then tell me that too. Thanks, Rogue

[Boatplans.dk]

Good to have you onboard our forum. I can see you have given your new boat some thoughts and that's fine. I find your ideas are excellent and I can't see why they should not be able to be adapted to the designs.

If you like beam and depth of the 14' Garvey flex but would prefer 12 feet length I suggest you simply use the plans for the 14' Garvey flex and make it 2 feet shorter.

Then there are the stringers, and I would suggest they are simply made higher and used for the vertical part of the longitudinal seats you describe. Since the longitudinal seats are not going all the way to the bow you will need some extra reinforcement if you remove the stringers in the forward part of the boat. Here you can use some glass fabric to compensate for the missing stringers. This will work due to the 10 hp outboard that will reduce the need for the stringers.

Changing the forward seat to a deck will be a small change that will only include a change of one frame and a larger piece of plywood for the deck instead of the seat.

So the above changes will give you a boat that is close to what you want, I think. However you also like a boat that you can cartop yourself. This is where it becomes difficult. The 12' Garvey flex is close to, if not above, the limit for single handling to the cartop, and I am afraid the changes will mean that the weight gets higher. So, in my opinion, this is where you have to think about a compromise. Will you give up the possibility to handle the boat alone to get the beam, depth and layout you prefer?

[hairymick]

G'day Rogue,

and welcome aboard!!

Moreton has told you true Weight is allways going to be an issue in building a boat to suit your stated requirements.

I haven't built any of Moretons fine boats yet but I too, like the GF range'

My question is this, How many times are you likely to need to take three large people onboard? If the answer is rarely, or just sometimes, then the 12 footer or the shortened 14 footer might suit your needs well enough, without the need to add too much extra weight.

Re loading the boat onto the roof of your towed car, that can be engineered around without too much difficulty.

good luck with the build mate.

Oh yeah,

Re posting piccies, I use Photobucket. have a look at the site. there are step by step instructions and they will even re-size your piccies for you. Even an IT idiot like me can do it.

[Kicknback]

Thanks for the quick replies Morton & Mick. I didn't know if I was thinking too far outside my realm or if my designs were indeed possible. I'm excited about building it once more. The wife sees me get like this and starts shaking her head with deep concern... after 43 years of bliss? 'Nuff of that.

Morton, do you think the addition of extra strategically spaced runners or skids added to the hull below substitute for the cut out stringers on the inside? Say 3/4 X 2" hardwood and running as far forward as the front seat brace? Perhaps even a longitudinal keel? Could even consider some inside the hull before glass, if needed.


As to getting the boat back up on cartop... at approx. 130 lbs. load I agree it could get to be a problem as I forget at times not as young as I used to be. I seem to recall some manufactured loader helper support seen once that possibly connects in the rear hitch? ... Seems like it just jacked up the rear of the boat and you spun the front around then and onto the carrier. Have you seen such a critter? Will have to do more checking on this one. I think a 2 wheel dolly of sorts would suffice to get her to & from the water... or maybe a two point hitch and mono wheel on the toad for short distance, certainly better letting the vehicle do the work, esp. in case of a steep ramp to contend with. Again more tho'ts.

Thanks a lot for the feedback... will go study the GF14 in detail and maybe get those plans ordered. Any more ideas or helpful hints will be appreciated. Thanks again, Roger

[Boatplans.dk]

Morton, do you think the addition of extra strategically spaced runners or skids added to the hull below substitute for the cut out stringers on the inside?

Two runners will do the job instead of the stringers. A keel will not be of much use since the structural strength at the center line is fine due to the v-bottom (the v-bottom gives a sort of natural stringer).

I seem to recall some manufactured loader helper support seen once that possibly connects in the rear hitch?

I have never tried any of the loading devises that are on the market, but they might work fine together with a trolley.