Sabalo 14

CC TX · Post by **CC TX** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 12:03 am

I have recently posted pictures of my progress of the Sabalo at:
http://www.picturetrail.com/tx-kayak

This is my first boat building project. Due to limited time that I have to work on this project, I have been making slow progress. I have enjoyed building this kayak, and I am looking forward to completing it and using it for fishing.

Currently I have the hull glassed inside and out with 4 oz. cloth, 3 epoxy fill coats on the outside, and have the framework installed.

I think that Matt designed an excellent kayak. I have made a few changes to his plans to better fit my needs, and to incorporate additional features. I have shorted the kayak to 14 feet, plan to install a Hobie Mirage Drive, widen the cockpit and tankwell out to the hull to provide more quick access storage, lower the tankwell, lower and round the deck, build a rudder and contols, build a seat, paddle, and V-sail. Ha! With all of that, I hope that it can still float.

varp · Post by **varp** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:06 am

David!

Big fat thankyou from yours truly!

These pics have been inspirational and I can't thankyou enough. I've poured over every one looking for clues.

For a first time builder you seem quite savvy by what you have achieved. It looks fabulous and very similar to what I envisage doing minus the Hobiedrive, shortening and sail.

I hope you don't mind a few questions a bit later when I start mine. To say I'm looking forward to more pics would be a massive understatement!

Cheers Ross Mcleod aka Varp

CC TX · Post by **CC TX** » Sun Oct 02, 2005 11:24 pm

I have cut the tankwell framework down so that the tamkwell floor is 5" above the bottom of the kayak at the scupper. Installed the tamkwell floor, added 4 oz. glass, and three fill coats of epoxy.

Started fitting the Hobie drive. I had to enlarge the hole in the hull to prevent the drive from slapping the hull. Otherwise, it would be to noisy for fishing.

I have also added a few more pictures of my progress. http://www.picturetrail.com/tx-kayak

More to come. I am also considering adding an ice chest to my list. I could design it so that the profile could be kept lower and better fit the space available than the ones that you can buy.

CC TX · Post by **CC TX** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 7:53 pm

I have made a little progress on installing the Hobie drive: installed the side supports with the hold down knobs.

I have also started building the seat. I am using a plastic boat seat as a form, edge gluing small pieces of scrap plywood to conform to the curvature of the seat.

I have started separating my progress pictures into multiple albums. The pictures will still be numbered by the order that they were taken regardless of the album that they are in. The link to the album index is http://www.picturetrail.com/tx-kayak .

Post by **jem** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 8:08 pm

Cool seat idea!

Now let me ask you: why the high-back seat?

CC TX · Post by **CC TX** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 8:32 pm

This seat is comfortable to me. Also, unlike paddling, when pedaling, you lean back into the seat. I would think that the high back seat should provide better back support. I wont know for sure until I try it out. I am also planning to make the recline angle of the seat adjustable.

varp · Post by **varp** » Fri Oct 14, 2005 7:59 am

Fantastic idea for the seat. Parquetry in motion! (sorry)

This could look brilliant when finished. Have you seen it done before David?

CC TX · Post by **CC TX** » Fri Oct 14, 2005 11:47 am

No, I haven't seen this done for a kayak seat; only for ornamental, artwork applications. My intention was only to produce a lightweight and thin core that could conform to the shape of the seat. I will probably cover this one up. If this seat works ok, I may do artwork with a future seat.

CC TX · Post by **CC TX** » Sun Dec 18, 2005 10:49 pm

Getting closer. Made progress on the Hobie drive, seat, cockpit floor, and the rear scupper with under the seat drain. Started on a rudder. As usual, pictures can be seen here: http://www.picturetrail.com/tx-kayak

Kayak Jack · Post by **Kayak Jack** » Mon Dec 19, 2005 12:14 am

David,

Nice work. My observations and comments are about your work bench, as your boat seems well under way.

I noticed that you use two B&D Workmate benches. Nice idea. Here are two ideas that I use; you may be able to adapt them for your use.

I use one Workmate for sundry tasks. To get more work area, I have a piece of 3/8" plywood, about 2' X 4', obviously this can be varied. On the back side of it. I screwed on a 2" X 4" - screwed it on tight. I centered it from side to side, and spaced it fore and aft so that one of the long edges of the plywood is aligned with the front edge of the Workmate. The 2" X 4" needs to fit centered in between the two long jack screws under the Workmate bench. Measure that distance & cut about an inch shorter. Then I screw the clamp arms of the Workmate up tight. Extra plywood overhangs on each side and in back of the underlying surface of the Workmate bench creating a much larger work surface.

The other idea I use is for a large bench to set hulls on during construction and modification. This is separate from the Workmate. I bought four saw horses, the metal folding kind with a nice plastic top edge. I used a 4' X 8' piece of 3/8" plywood, ripped down the middle to produce two pieces 2' X 8'. When working on wide pieces of wood, I fasten them together side by side, in a 4' X 8' configuration and lay them on the sawhorses. I fasten them with two, 1" X 2" slats about 18" long, and use machine screws, washers, & nuts to cleat the plywood pieces together using the slats. Countersink the heads into the top surface of the plywood to keep from digging into your nice boat.

When I get the boat pieces cut and am gluing them together into boat-length planks, I reform the workbench with pieces end to end. I then fasten the cleats underneath the plywood so that my bench is 2' X 16', and again lay it on the four saw horses.

The plywood is a bit springy, so I braced the bottom of the 2' X 8' pieces. I had some old wooden banister rail, about 2" diameter. It has one flat side and I screwed that to the bottom surface of the large sheets. Can’t go full length as it interferes with saw horses and slats, about 5' - 6' long, centered under the 2' X 8' sheets.