Hi everyone. Still working on the canoe . A short run down: changed the thwarts, been making seats and have been adding front and rear decks or should I say floatation chambers, and a bunch of paddles. Some pics...
Thats looking great mate. Allmost like a ssmall banka boat!
Love it. Well done.
I am real interested in your seat set up. Are those rebate joints you have done? very neat. I also like the green outside with the white inside and brightwork gunwhales. beautiful contrast.
Man, that is going to be one real flash boat, Goodonyamaaaaate.
Hi Mick. Thank you for the compliments. This place does give a lot of inspiration.
Yes the fronts are rebates because I think I need more material on the bottom. All other are mortise and tenons. They're far from perfect. In time, with a lot more practice, all in good time.
Louis, that is some very nice looking woodwork. Much nicer than mine. I have a thought, and will try to explain it.
From an engineering point of view, you may think about two or more seat mounts permanently glued into the boat. A mount that has, say, three slots for different heights of seating could be duplicated or triplicated and placed along under your tumble home gunnels.
This would be stronger than your present, hanging framework, but likely a bit heavier too. It's all according to what is most valuable to your application, weight or strength.
If the present hanging rack withstands the rigors of use, then it is the system to keep. Have you considered anchoring it to the floor of your canoe?
Kayak Jack
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Liking what you do is HAPPINESS
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Louis, I think the screws will pull out, or from movement of the seat from your paddling motion, they will wallow out and eventually pull through. I think it should be mounted to the floor. JMHO.
I'd consider beefing the up a bit. You're going to get side-to-side swaying motion and that will work itself loose. Let me think about the best way to handle the sliding seat.
I can't tell from the pictures if this is possible... but if hung those rails from the thwarts, that would be pretty solid. Also, if you could extend the horizonal cross bar on the bottom to the sides of the hull, that would make it stronger.
I think you guys are right, the thing does need some rethought. The biggest problem is that the screw will slowly be worked loose by the all the motion ... it would be like prying a nail out of piece of wood. The inwale should be able to take the static forces no problem.
How about this:
I will glue a piece of wood to the hull to serve as a "socket" that will constrain the motion of the hanger. Or, the piece of wood could just extend the hanger and deliver the load to the chine which seems to be directly below. If I do this then the screw at the top will be more of just a pin that constraints the top end from moving in the horizontal plane.
Keep the thoughts coming. They're most appreciated .