Filleting

[Dan0]

Hi all you experienced Builders,

Is there a preferred sequence for filleting the seams? Should it be the same as the stitching sequence? Could I fillet the bottom from the inside before inverting the boat to do the side seams? Will the fillets distort the hull as they cure and shrink if the boat is not secured with weights or tied down?

I am operating on the prim-us that the only dumb question is the un-ask question?

Looking forward to seeing your thoughts on these.

[jem]

I specify the outside seams first because the hull is on the saw horses (or workbench) with the bottom facing up from checking that the hull has no twist.

[Dan0]

Just had to ask I will do it as recommended. Thanks for the prompt reply Matt.

[Tor]

and the resin doesn't shrink as it cures so although everything should be straight and level when you start you don't need to secure it in place, just make sure it does move or get knocked once you've started.

[jem]

oops. I missed the "shrink" issue in the original post.

Tor is correct saying no shrinkage. The unfinished edge grain of the plywood will absorb some of the material if you choose not pre-seal the edges with a little epoxy.

[Dan0]

Thanks again. I just finished filleting the outside including the stitch areas. It went pretty well and much faster than I had imagined. Of course, I over estimated the volume of filleting material that would be needed. I thought the syringe method sounded good so I cleaned a caulking gun canister, filled it with the mix, but had about 1/3 left in the container. I decided to use the 1/3 first. While applying this, the mix in the cartridge that I had loaded into the gun cooked off, expanded to overflow the gun. It was hard as a rock and to hot to handle.
The 1/3 filled everything but the end seams so I had to make up a little more. I used sifted sawdust from cutting a local hardwood with an 80 tooth 7 1/4 circular saw blade. I sifted this through regular window screen. About 90% was usable and it worked well. I will touch up the seams tomorrow.

This really is an educational experience!

I used a 4" angle grinder with a concrete smoothing disk to clean up and smooth out the joints. I opted not to precoat the end grain so I will have to fill a few low spots and very few voids. It worked well and took only little over an hour for a rough cut. I may also use it for fairing the seams as well.

[jem]

You'll get better at estimating quantities and application technique to the point where you'll have little waste and little need to touch up after working an area.

[Dan0]

Thanks Matt, I'll be looking forward to that time! I wound up using a 3/4" X1/4 stick that I had cut for another project. It worked so well I think I will continue to do it that way I have several 12' lengths I had been using as facings for Plywood edges.